The Eateries, Readeries, and Stomping Grounds of San Francisco
A curated guide to the city for ASA attendees.
Only seven-by-seven miles, San Francisco may be a relatively small metro area, but this peninsula city boasts a seemingly endless array of things to do, see, and—perhaps most importantly—eat. While zipping through a city in conference-mode, it can be difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff when it comes to hunting down local spots to wile away the non-conference hours—and in a city like San Francisco, the options alone can be overwhelming. So, after tapping a few shoulders around the office, we have compiled a list of San Francisco’s must-sees and -dos, as chosen by Bay Area natives and transplants. For the truncated version, see the Google Map—and for longform recommendations, see what SUP staff had to say about their picks below.
My favorite neighborhood and typical destination on weekends is Hayes Valley. A relatively easy MUNI or taxi ride from Union Square and the conference hotels, the neighborhood offers great window shopping and lots of good eats, all in view of the golden dome of SF City Hall and within steps of the Opera House and Symphony Hall. My favorite SF restaurant (if I must pick just one!) is currently Rich Table. Reservations might be hard to come by on short notice, but if you can get to the restaurant around 5pm—and are willing to eat at such an unglamorous early hour—you’ll likely get a seat at the bar. Or consider the just-opened Monsieur Benjamin. It’s a French restaurant with a French Laundry–trained chef in the kitchen—need I say more? (If you go, get the seafood sausage.) Also of note in Hayes Valley, 20th Century Café is great for coffee and pastries (you must get the potato knish) and Smitten is where you can get made-to-order ice cream (yes, frozen on demand with liquid nitrogen! It’s amazing).
To experience a completely different side of San Francisco, get out to the ocean. Ride the N-Judah line to the end, and you’ll be at Ocean Beach. Keep in mind, this is a San Francisco beach—wear layers and bring a scarf! On a sunny day, it’s gorgeous. On a foggy day, it’s true San Francisco Sunset district weather. Outerlands serves great farm-to-table fare and terrific cocktails. Trouble Coffee is best known for their toast. Yes, toast. $4 a slice might seem outrageous (it is), but you’ve never had cinnamon toast like this—and it will make the perfect anecdote to add to your conference conversations about economic inequality and “Hard Times.”
At the end of the day, I would highly encourage attendees to go beyond Union Square. A quick and easy BART trip to 16th Street and Mission Street will land visitors in the Mission District—one of my favorite hoods. From the BART station, walk over to Valencia Street and stroll up toward 24th Street. Vibrant and trendy, you cannot help but happen upon cute shops, artisan stores, and plenty of restaurant options. Chief among my recommendations are Mission Cheese, Dandelion Chocolate, Craftsman and Wolves bakery, and The Abbot’s Cellar for a proper dinner (with out of this world beer pairings). Further up the drag, you’ll find Dog Eared Books and Borderlands Books (especially tailored to science fiction, fantasy, horror, and mystery fans).
If attendees just can’t make it beyond Union Square, a few more proximate gems are Blue Bottle Coffee at Mint Plaza, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Colibri for Mexican (pardon the cheesy atmosphere), and Dottie’s True Blue Café for breakfast (expect a line).
“See it before it’s gone!” is what I say about my neighborhood, the old heart of San Francisco’s Mission District from the 24th-Street BART station east to Potrero. The Mission is named for the Spanish-founded California mission that gave San Francisco its name and patron saint, and its 24th-Street artery is the city’s oldest neighborhood. Spaniards from Mexico who displaced the Ohlone Indians were themselves eventually displaced by European settlers. But beginning in the 1940s and 50s, when the first big waves of Mexican immigrants came to the city, it became Latino SF’s main shopping drag, and many of the oldest bakeries, bodegas, and barber shops are of that vintage.
San Francisco’s Mexican-influenced mural tradition, which took off big time in the 60s and 70s, is well represented here: the neighborhood has the highest concentration of wall paintings in the city, which you can even tour with local guides who will certainly stop at famous Balmy Alley. A somewhat more formal setting for creative endeavors, the Galería de La Raza, has been sponsoring Latino and Chicano art since 1970. Other worthwhile stops include: Casa Lucas Market, with its colorful hanging piñatas, tortilla presses, granite mortar and pestles, and aisles of ingredients for Central and South American cuisine; La Palma “Mexicatessen,” where, thanks to hand-ground masa and homemade tortillas, there’s always a line; or one of the classic places to grab a burrito or a Mexican sandwich, such as El Farolito and La Torta Gorda.
If perhaps, you want to surround yourself with austere nature for just a few minutes, or hours, there are many fantastic places to get some fresh air between your sessions and the general conference buzz. The Presidio is Golden Gate Park’s more natural, sophisticated older sister. On the Northern tip of the city, this beautiful and wild national park site is the best and fastest way to leave the city while still standing inside it. The cypress trees, birds, and native plants are definitely worth exploring. My favorite trail within the Presidio (this week anyway—there are so many to choose from) is the Bay Area Ridge Trail. This is actually a much larger trail, that forms a tremendous loop across (you guessed it) the Bay Area. But it’s at its best in the Presidio. Also, Lands End, while perhaps not as impressive as the Presidio in terms of natural flora and fauna, boasts some of the best views of the ocean and the Golden Gate Bridge (when there isn’t fog, that is).
Hiking is really just walking, as far as I’m concerned. So if you prefer some more city-centric hikes here are a few other suggestions: check out the Botanical Gardens, the Japanese Tea Garden, or the Conservatory of Flowers to Stow Lake, all located in Golden Gate Park. And, while you’re trekking through the city proper, make sure to step into one of San Francisco’s indie bookstores.
There are a lot of must-visit San Francisco booksellers, but here are a few you should definitely make some time to see: Green Apple Books, The Booksmith, City Lights, Dog Eared Books, Christopher’s Books, and Books Inc.
My restaurant recommendation is slightly odd, and not for everyone. And I’ll lead off with the caveat that you’re not going here for the food—it’s great, but there’s better to be had elsewhere in town. But what you cannot match anywhere else is the experience.
If you head over to Fisherman’s Wharf (and let’s admit it, most people do at some point), walk around to Pier 39. You can’t miss it. Just follow the flashing lights, noise, and tourist buses. But just on the west side of Pier 39, down at sea level on the boat jetty, you’ll find a small skiff often driven by a man with the fantastic name of Forbes Thor Skiddoo. He’ll take you across to Forbes Island, which was once his home. It’s a house boat, complete with several tons of top-soil, live palm trees, and a lighthouse, and it’s moored at the end of the breakwater, usually only accessible by boat.
Dinner is served below decks, in a warm (some might say claustrophobic) room that holds 50 or so diners. Don’t expect ocean views from the dining room—unless you’re seated in the upstairs overflow room, you’ll be below the water level, and the windows are pretty impenetrable. But you can walk around both above and below decks, and climbing to the top of the lighthouse gives you a magical view of Telegraph Hill and Coit Tower.
And in case you’re wondering why I’m attached to this place: I got married there.
